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ver the last four months, I have tasted approximately 250 white wines to come up
with some excellent values in different price ranges. This list is almost
exclusively American. We
’ll consider French, Australian and South American whites at a later date.
Sauvignon Blanc:
Clos la Chance White-Tufted Sunbeam Sauvignon Blanc Central Coast 2008 – Lovely, fresh cut grass and citrus flavors. Very good acidity and a refreshing,
rather than overwhelming, dollop of grapefruit. 78 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 22
percent Semillon. Try with shellfish or slightly spicy veggie hors d
’oeuvres. $15
Starmont Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2008 – Produced by Merryvale. Very impressive effort—first try for me. Crafted in Starmont’s solar-powered cutting edge winery in Carneros. Eco-friendly. Excellent taste
profile.
$18
Robert Mondavi Fume-Blanc Napa Valley 2007 – Mondavi invented Sauvignon Blanc as a California stand-alone varietal in 1966,
and gave it the name it still carries. No wild, overly grassy or overblown
grapefruit notes like some I
’ve had from New Zealand. This wine exhibits beautiful Napa fruit tasting of
citrus and ripe melon. Try with Oysters Rockefeller.
$20
Dry Creek Estate Fume-Blanc DCV3 Dry Creek Valley 2006 – Probably the best Sauvignon Blanc you’ve never heard of. This vineyard was planted in 1972—first Sauvignon Blanc vineyard in Dry Creek Valley. Intense and seamless. Bright
fruit flavors.
$25
Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2007 – Along with the Dry Creek DCV3, one of my favorites of this varietal anywhere,
any time. Try with goat cheese crostini or a goat cheese salad with tomatoes, a
little olive oil, herbs and freshly squeezed lemon juice.
$27
Chardonnay:
Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay Livermore 2007 – From vineyards planted on the cool west side of Livermore Valley, with 60
percent barrel fermentation, 40 percent stainless. Nice touch of oak from six
months of both new and used. All-purpose white.
$11.99
Clos du Bois Chardonnay North Coast 2007 – Tasted against another two California Chardonnays, one at $15 and another at
$38, both reasonably good for their price range, the Clos du Bois was clearly
the best value. Through just a hint of oak and spice, the pure Chardonnay
flavors came shining through. All-purpose white.
$15
Wente River Ranch Chardonnay Arroyo Seco 2007 – Even cooler growing conditions. Kept six months sur lie for enhanced richness.
Lovely aromatics and flavors.
$15.99
Michael & David Seven Heavenly Chards Lodi 2007 – Bouquet of guava nectar with hints of pineapple. “Light lime with a touch of butter” on the palate. Very pleasing. 8,000 cases produced. $17
Macari Chardonnay Reserve Long Island 2007 – A tantalizing Chardonnay from New York, aged in French oak for 12 months. Not a
blockbuster, rather an elegant offering with toasted almonds and tropical
fruit. Lovely finish.
$22
Cambria Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Bench Break Vineyard 2006 – “Intense, powerful and well-structured.” Nice texture with peaches, pears and a hint of well-integrated oak. Lovely wine
from very long growing season.
$25
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Clos du Bois Calcaire 2007 – Clos du Bois Proprietary Series represents the pinnacle of the Clos du Bois
winemaking tradition. This is an elegant expression of classic Chardonnay fruit
and spice from the Russian River Valley. Apples and pears in the bouquet are
followed by Burgundian nuances on the palate. Perfect with lobster bisque
recently at Tony
’s. A steal at $25.
Byron Chardonnay Historic Vines Santa Maria Valley 2006 – One gorgeous, underpriced beauty. Touch of honey and a kiss of oak. Noticeable,
beneficial
minerality. $27
Chappellet Chardonnay Napa Valley 2007 – From mountain grown grapes with very low yields, resulting in intensely
concentrated fruit flavors. The relatively high alcohol level is
well-integrated and only adds to the sweetness, not from sugar, but from ripe
fruit!
$28
Dry Creek Chardonnay DCV10 Russian river 2006 – From a vintage with nearly perfect growing conditions for Chardonnay, this wine
boasts of figs, apricots and tropical fruits. Memorable finish.
$30
Talbott Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2006 – From old Wente clone vines on two prized vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands.
Add meticulous care combined with extremely low yields and you get this
remarkably concentrated fruit that definitely carries a
“Wow” factor. Try with seafood or chicken entrée. $40
Patz & Hall Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch Russian River Valley 2006 – This top vineyard was planted in 1990 by fifth-generation grape growers.
Quintessential Russian River Chardonnay. Excellent acidity and rich, drop-dead
gorgeous fruit. Another entr
ée wine—or rich seafood appetizers. $45
Kesner Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros 2006 – From Houstonian Lee Hudson’s vineyard, this beauty exhibits intriguing white peaches and orange peel in the
bouquet, followed by a delicious, elegant taste. Fabulous food wine. How about
red snapper topped with crabmeat? Last vintage for winemaker Jason Kesner, who
has moved on to Kistler. 336 cases.
$50
Other:
Tamas Pinot Grigio 2007 – Full in the mouth with good fruit and acidity. Best seller for Wente, who
produces this wine. All-purpose white. 25,000 cases produced.
$9.50
Brennan Vineyards Three White Chicks White Wine Comanche County (Texas) 2007 – Intriguing blend of Semillon, Chardonnay and Viognier. Went down so fast, I
didn
’t realize it was gone. Pat Brennan calls it “a breath of fresh air.” Guava nectar in the nose followed by a lively, fresh taste. $15
Michael & David Incognito Lodi 2006 – Eye-catching, recherché mask for front label. Mostly Viognier with Marsanne and Roussanne. A hint of
sweetness along with ripe fruit makes for a memorable experience. Try with
grilled shrimp.
$16
Domaine Wachau Gruner Veltliner Terrassen Smaragd (Austria) 2007 – Perfect wine for the “anything but Chardonnay” crowd. Actually stunning if you’ve never tried one. $18
Velikal Piesporter Goldtropfchen Spatlese (Germany) 2007 – Wow, if you haven’t tried anything like this lately, ask your wine merchant to find the closest
wine available. Refreshing is an understatement. Slightly sweet, but with
excellent balancing acidity. No food necessary, but great match for spicy Asian
fare.
$25
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