Sparkling wines should be enjoyed throughout the year. When Madame Lilly
Bollinger (of the Bollinger Champagne house) was asked by a London reporter
when she drank Champagne, she replied,
“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory, I trifle with it if I’m not not hungry and I drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it—unless I’m thirsty.”
The perfect venue for these wines is the holiday season. Holiday or year-round,
I recommend the following. And remember Mark Twain
’s pertinent statement, “To get the full value of joy you must have someone to divide it with.”
Zonin Prosecco Special Cuvee Brut – Made from 100% Prosecco grapes, this Italian sparkler has a bright, light gold
color, an appley bouquet and a hint of almonds in the taste.
$9.99
Mumm Napa Reserve Brut – Elegant wine with a hint of fresh figs in the bouquet. Lovely, creamy texture.
The best of the non-vintage line at Mumm Napa. For those who prefer all
Chardonnay in the bottle, the Mumm Napa Blanc de Blancs 2003 is also a big
winner. $28 each. And the Mumm Napa Brut Ros
é with its “wild strawberry, bing cherry and dark plums” is a great value at $24.
J Cuvee 20 Brut Russian River Valley – Hints of lemon peel, honeysuckle, apples and pears in the bouquet. Balance of
all components in the taste. Lovely finish. Fabulous bottle design (as are all
the J wines).
$32
Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut Russian River Valley 2003 – 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. Rich and creamy. Ripe flavors with apple and
biscuity notes. Memorable finish.
$33
Frank Family Blanc de Noirs Napa Valley – Light pink, rose petal color does not begin to hint at the beautiful, fresh
strawberries and warm baked brioche with nutty undertones that make this one of
the best values in
“pink” sparkling wine. Creamy texture and fruit “reminiscent of wild berry panicotta” fill the mid-palate. Served blind with a rosé Champagne at twice the cost (which didn’t make the cut here), and the Frank Family was a clear winner. $35
Handley Brut Anderson Valley 2003 – A real surprise from a new sparkling wine for me. The cool Anderson Valley in
Mendocino County is being mentioned in the same breath as Russian River Valley
and Sta. Rita Hills for top quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (and thus the
sparkling wines made therefrom). Yummy.
$38
Iron Horse Blanc de Blancs Russian River Valley 2002 – Scrumptious bouquet of apples and fresh, light-toasted bread. The most elegant
of the Iron Horse cuvees. Lovely minerally finish.
$38
Veuve Clicquot Brut Yellow Label – This current release is the best non-vintage Clicquot I’ve ever experienced. The color is a light yellow-gold. In the mouth, the wine is
bright and refreshing with successive surprises at each sip, including white
fruits, vanilla and toasted pound cake. Clicquot draws on up to 40% of its best
reserves to insure the consistency of their house style. Excellent structure,
the taste continues with a seductive array of flavors followed by a notable
finish.
$45
J Vintage 2000 Brut Russian River Valley – Perfect growing season for sparkling wine. Bouquet of toasted almonds, baked
brioche and nutmeg. Bright crisp acidity with harmony of flavors.
$50
Veuve Clicquot Vintage Brut 2000 – 60% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 7% Pinot Meunier make up this remarkably
feminine, delicate cuvee. Flowers in the bouquet. Surprising long, full finish.
$65
Pommery Brut Rosé – One-third Chardonnay, one-third Pinot Noir and one-third Pinot Meunier.
Beautiful strawberry bouquet. Fresh and lively flavors with subtlety and charm.
“Joyous in the daytime, romantic at night.” From the first Champagne house to make a commitment to a “greener and cleaner world.” $70
Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rosé Brut – “The best-selling rosé Champagne in the world,” this wine is one of the few still made by the saignée method, which enhances the phenolics and flavor compounds. Deep, salmon-pink
color with hints of strawberries and black cherries. Layers of flavor in the
mouth followed by a lengthy, satisfying finish.
$100
Dom Perignon Oenotheque 1993 – This is one of those coruscating gems released every 12 to 15 years when the “intensity of classic character” from its aging in the cellar has brought the wine to near perfection. There is
a huge
“Wow” factor involved when taking the first sip of this wine. The words “class” and “breed” immediately spring to mind. Dried herbs, cinnamon and biscuits in the bouquet,
followed by a bright creaminess, noticeable minerality and fabulous
persistence. The ultimate Christmas present for your champagne lover.
$417
Denman Moody is the former publisher of Moody’s Wine Review, which the Washington Post said was “...certainly the best publication in this country for tracking the state of rare
and exotic wines.
” He was also the contributing editor on rare wines for the International Wine
Review in New York from 1984-1990. He is currently a freelance wine writer and
wine consultant.
